CD3

(53 mins)
 

3/1

PARTIES AT DICK FRENCH'S

Parracombe and Brendon people certainly different, but in those days they were both proper Exmoor people. Indeed there was quite a lot of contact even though they were some miles apart. Was surprised fairly soon after he arrived, when he was in Parracombe, and somebody said 'we're off to Dick French's wedding'. He thought 'Dick's ten miles away, when I lived in Croydon I didn't know anyone who lived two miles away'. He soon learnt that Exmoor is Exmoor [laughs].. Didn't go to the wedding, a matter of a year later probably would have done. Has been to very good parties at Dick's house. Food incredible, has never tasted beef sandwiches like Lorna French (who was a Ridd) provided. Then Dick would sing songs, not a terribly good voice but sang very good songs. Other people sang as well. There's a stag hunting song and there was a chap (his memory lets him down over names) who always sung the stag hunting song at any conceivable or inconceivable opportunity [added later – it has been suggested that this singer was Jim Sanders].  Party would have been for anything. Pony round up a fixed event, but Dick a very sociable character. [Back to top]
 

3/2

LOCAL FRIENDSHIPS

Being doctor and friend worked very well indeed. Doesn't think he was ever an autocratic doctor sure was regarded as friend first, but supposes there was a certain underlying respect he didn't demand. Wouldn't have been treated like the doctor at Dick French's party. Used to meet them on the moor when out walking. One nice occasion, a Ridd who lived at Hoaroak cottage [now fallen down] suffered from gout. He knew it was gout, knew EM knew it was gout, and although EM supplied emergency treatment if it came on it was absolutely essential that he went to inspect his toe. So probably once a year was called to Hoaroak. So drove to South Furzehill, left car there, walked by track through woods, over Furzehill common. Once, half way there dressed in tie and sports coat, carrying bag, he ran into the hunt. Ted Stanbury drove up beside him and said 'doctor, what be 'e doing here?'. He had that sort of association. Would routinely wear jacket and tie.

When came to the area was very well welcomed. Can remember five years after they'd came, someone was staying with them was in the pub, talking to someone who didn't know they were staying with them who said 'and we've got a new doctor too, he's very good though.' [Back to top]
 

3/3

SAILING

Had always liked sailing and bought a pickaroona, old traditional Clovelly boat, peculiar design, said to be Spanish. Clinker built, about 16ft long, nice and broad, very good sea boat. Sailed with a dipping lugsail, an art to be learnt. Second coxswain of Clovelly lifeboat had one for sale. EM bought it. They had it in harbour for 30 years at least. Got to be quite well known on the coast. Never went far in it, maybe to Porlock, maybe Ilfracombe. Lighthouse men, in days when it was manned, always used to wave when he sailed past. Used to catch mackerel. Used to take Cyril Manning, local RSPB man, out to do bird counts round coast.

Sailed as family. Wasn't very long before Peter (one of the twins) reckoned he could sail better than EM and not long after that before Ann (born 1960, seven years later) reckoned she could scull a boat better. [Back to top]
 

3/4

EXMOOR SOCIETY / ARCHAEOLOGY / HAZEL EARDLY-WILMOT / FOUNDERS AWARD

Finding his way around the moor when he first arrived not difficult. Has always liked roaming, used to reckon knew Sussex downs as well as he now knows the moor but probably didn't. Didn't have much time. Not until he retired that he really reckoned he had walked up every combe on northern side of moor and knew all the secret places. Joined Exmoor Society soon after it was formed. Wrote a thing for the Exmoor Review which was picked up by Hazel Eardley-Wilmot [book Yesterday's Exmoor dedicated to EM]. EM had mentioned some stones HEW didn't know. They arranged to meet and he took her over moor. He thought it was just a one-off but they had a very pleasant walk over Furzehill common, he showed her some stones she didn't know, but she clearly wanted more and gradually it became routine that they had expeditions together.

Then she planned to write a book on ancient Exmoor and EM collaborated with her over that. When she needed a sketch or plan or map reference he would wander over moor and get it for her. Then she planned to write Yesterday's Exmoor and he collaborated quite a lot over that. Together they collected list of all standing stones on their little patch of moor, this was accepted by first the Exeter archaeologist, then he found that some of his little finds had found their way onto the OS map. When Heritage people made a survey of moor they used to drop in on him and ask where such and such a stone could be found and occasionally he went out on the moor with them.

Very valuable friendship with Hazel over the years. She taught him an awful lot about Bronze Age archaeology and he in turn was able to turn up with some little finds to show her.

Remembers Exmoor Society being founded. Approved, but didn't do anything about it. But GP cum physician at North Devon Infirmary, Dick Harper (wonderful chap, once told EM that he was the seventh generation Barnstaple doctor since the first of that generation was shipwrecked off the Lizard, swam ashore and walked to Barnstaple [laughs] - doesn't know whether entirely true, but Dick a wonderful character). Dick said 'Ernest, you must join the Exmoor Society', so did. Thinks joined at same time as Victor Bonham Carter. Got founders award five or six years ago. Went over to see Ann Le Bas in Winsford to choose some etchings [indicates sitting room wall] [note - actually engravings]. They must have thought he was adequately active a member. Is a fairly regular contributor to the Exmoor Review but it was also in acknowledgement of the museum, Exmoor Natural History Society, leading the Exmoor Society walk, generally regarding him as having contributed something. Thinks he was quite undeservedly one of archaeological advisers to Exmoor National Park [Authority]. [Back to top]
 

3/5

ST VINCENT COTTAGE / LYN AND EXMOOR MUSEUM

[Lyn and Exmoor] Museum a little cottage down in old town of Lynton. Reckoned to be oldest habitable building, probably dating fairly soon after 1700. Called St Vincent cottage, but much older than St Vincent House standing next to it. St Vincent House built by Nelson's flag captain at battle of St Vincent , when he retired he built St Vincent the house in 1834. By doing so he must have demolished two cottages, foundations still to be seen, but retained third cottage, already probably 100 years old, which became known as St Vincent cottage. Almost certainly taken over by flag captain chap for his staff. Not very clear what happened throughout Victorian era but sometime at beginning of century taken over as sort of council house by Lynton Urban District Council.

In 1962 cottage declared unfit for human habitation and there was consultation as to what should be done with it. Remarkable chap called Harry Sutton, in fact first Secretary of Exmoor Society. Not truly an Exmoor man as brought up on Brendon Hills but came to Lynton in 1920s to drive solid tyred motor bus over moor (told many a tale about that too). Harry said 'we'll make this into a museum'. Force of personality such that UDC agreed. He called together, EM thinks, 16 of them on committee (names up in museum, he thinks there are only four left). Clearly remembers all sorts of meetings, businessmen talking about insurance, repairs, getting lease etc. EM sat not really understanding what they were talking about and asking 'what are we going to put in it?' and answer came 'oh it will come' and it did. There was no plan at all, it was just going to be a museum. [Back to top]
 

3/6

ARTEFACTS

EM by no means the only one, but he was in a very good position. He knew everyone by then who lived between the top of Porlock Hill and Countisbury Ford and when he did calls said 'oh by the way, have you got anything for our museum?' and the stuff he got was incredible. He by no means stocked museum but could show lots of quite valuable things that were casually handed over to him. 

Then Harry knew extraordinarily nice chap called Mr Glanville in Porlock, a councillor, had a collection of all sorts of antiquarian things which he presented to them. As intentions became known more and more people contributed. They didn't organise it at all, just accepted gratefully anything that came in. Did get duplications.

Have never had space for everything and never will have. A bit crammed, but gradually getting fairly orderly. Initially a chap [whose name EM can't quite remember] voluntarily catalogued everything. That was about it until they decided much against Harry's desires to become established properly with Museums Council. Luckily EM had retired by then. Formidable task. Each object had to be given number, have catalogue card, be entered in register. Really quite a lot of work but they managed to do it all. Original old catalogue a great help because there was only folk knowledge as it were of where everything came from but they sorted it out bit by bit. Nobody in particularly did identifying and describing. EM still has sudden flashes of exactly what this or that tool was. They get extraordinary amount of information from people who drop in with some specialised knowledge. Someone was able to date grandfather clock for them, someone else with pinpoint accuracy dated a Napoleonic musket, justified in museum because he thinks it belonged to Devon militia. Certainly every year they get some insight into something from a visitor.

Really had too many things for the space, and crowded them. Time when they will have to be selective has come already. This year he reckoned to put duplicated things into store. Still being given things. If someone offered them something they didn't have space for or need he would say so politely. Not entirely up to him, he happens to be chairman but anybody on committee makes decisions. But if someone offers them something almost casually which he doesn't think deserves a place will say so, and it's always accepted. They aim to provide overall picture of Lynton society from Bronze Age almost to present day. As that embraces everything that everybody does you are bound to have gaps. Doesn't think there are any glaring gaps, doesn't ever think 'oh, I wish someone would give me .'. Sees museum and building it's in as inseparable. Has heard someone say 'really, the building is your best display item'. [Back to top]
 

3/7

MUSEUM FINANCE

Financed 'by guess and by God'. In theory entrance fees just pays. Building at Peppercorn rent of £1 year, but catch is have to maintain it themselves. Had bit of crisis at end of 1999 when found they were getting into debt, more than finding it difficult to cope. Had always had half voluntary (and paid a trifle) as an attendant. Harry's original idea to find pensioner who wouldn't mind earning just a little because job appealed. Got on for years and years with this and it worked well.

Then several things happened. It became more difficult to find someone who would take over responsibility and treasurer told them very firmly they had to pay minimum wage. Finances couldn't stretch to that. By this time had three or four attendants who split week between them. Told them sorrowfully could not afford to pay them any more and would have to have purely voluntary attendants. There was a split reception from indignation and immediate walk out to offering to do it for nothing.

This year first without paid attendants, EM thought would end in disaster. Has been difficult. Instead of recognised attendant they have two per day, one morning and afternoon. Shirley Oakley, one of original paid attendants, is not only doing job for nothing but has undertaken organisation, cajoling and perhaps bullying, and it has gone very smoothly. Because of that and because of a very substantial grant from various sources - Exmoor National Park, Greater Exmoor Leader project, a bit from District Council - they have had a major refurbishment. As that came from the grant and they haven't got to pay wages they are doing all right now. Open Easter until end October. [Back to top]
 

3/8

RUNNING MUSEUM / ARTEFACTS

Closed to visitors in winter months. They try and do a bit of rehabilitation. Bit hit and miss as can't afford to have cleaners but it gets cleaned somehow. A lot of maintenance of building itself. Terry Loveless, once District Council Surveyor, invaluable, knows exactly what needs doing and has means of doing it. Looking after artefacts rather hit and miss but several of them do what they can. This year have also been able to get complete re-labelling, making it a little more professional.

Can vividly remember being given several things. One a rather fine oak jug, suspects may even be Elizabethan, at a datable time. It was encrusted with pottery sherds, possible to strengthen it but probably through a curious idea of improving its appearance. These bits of pottery can be dated to round about 1800. Elizabethan perhaps a bit far fetched, but for several generations jug must have been kept in a Parracombe family, who decided to smarten it up a bit around about 1800 but still kept it in the family. Extraordinarily generous of old Mr Delbridge to give it to him. Didn't see it in his house. Mr D just said 'I've got something for you doctor' and brought it out.

Have got probably very valuable item, the nameplate of the Lynton locomotive. When British Rail took over, representative of BR presented plate to EM. Remembers it clearly. Had little ceremony at Tors Hotel and as it was handed to EM he suddenly realised it weighed best part of a hundredweight. Justified in museum because it's called 'Lynton' but slightly out of place in kitchen, would like it in different place.

Have a security alarm system. Complicates life as when you've done it often enough you can ignore the shriek when you come in and go up to the board to switch it off but part time attendants find it off putting. [Back to top]
 

3/9

CHANGES IN PARRACOMBE

Delbridges at Parracombe an old family. EM liked him, liked everybody. He belonged to old Parracombe community, very much an Exmoor community when EM first knew it. He watched it turn from proper little Exmoor village into bit of a suburb. Lovely gentleman, Ernie Smythe, who had piece of ground stretching behind Fox and Goose to river, he was a great gardener. Then in 1960s or bit earlier a thunderbolt hit Parracombe. First they had mains water instead of from somebody's well, then new sewage system, then electricity. All these outlandish things came and of course the road was dug up and replaced every time. Sewage system planned to come right through Ernie Smythe's garden. He protested to no avail so set his bee hives along track. EM doesn't think they worked [laughs]. [Back to top]
 

3/10

WRITING / LYNMOUTH FLOOD / WIFE JENNY / TELEPHONE / RECREATIONAL INTERESTS

Has written a little book, which he calls 'a brief history of Lynton' and writes for Exmoor Review, has article in this year.

When he came to Lynton (a year after Lynmouth flood) it could have been two days after. Absolute devastation down there. He left his car wherever he could when he called. Remembers once when only way to cross the Lyn to get where he wanted to go was by a log laid across river. From battle course days it was easy enough to walk across log. Case lock swung open half way across so he stopped, bent down and put it together and walked across log [laughs]. Caused some astonishment.

EM sure the flood affected his practice, it affected a lot of people who were closely involved. Not sure what else he can say about that. He didn't actually start work in Lynton until August, just a year after. An awful mess a year afterwards. Thinks it was a year after that that it was beginning to get sorted out.

EM's wife (who had only planned to come for a few years) adapted all right, but he thinks for a long time there was a hankering. She was incredibly limited, especially before 1966. In 1966 they had separate telephone number for health centre, the manager looked after telephone all day, apart from lunch-time. It was switched over to them when she left. But then they had Roger Farrar, the partner, and it could be switched over to him, week in week out. But until 1966 had 24 hour responsibility. Dr Nightingale's wife Peggy in same position, so if Jenny had to go and buy loaf bread she had to negotiate with Peggy as to which of them should stay indoors. So she was incredibly housebound. While boys were growing up to take them down to Lee Bay was another negotiation with Peggy. So life must have been very difficult for her indeed. The only little essay back to teaching was a stand-in job at Parracombe, which didn't last very long.

Interests now (since accident with back) same as always have been. Not very good on moor now, can't probe and only safe on tracks. As has never walked on tracks tends not to go out on moor. Hasn't done any riding for a long time now, though went after broke back went riding again. Has given up boat, handing it over to son who is it in Dorset, though daughter Ann [now at home] angling to get it back again. Walking out and practical archaeology out. Has always been interested in fiddling about with wood, does a bit of carving [indicates carving of oyster catcher on shelf in corner]. Has done quite a lot of construction work at museum, made Ann a bookcase, that sort of thing. [Back to top]
 

3/11

FURZEHILL ARCHAEOLOGY / HAZEL EARDLEY-WILMOTT / COUNTY BOUNDARY

EM supposes a dozen places on the moor stand out in his mind's eye. He can think at random of a rather nice little thing that Hazel [Eardley-Wilmott] and he worked out. Over towards Furzehill there's a ring barrow, which has a stone standing upright in the middle of it, which it ought not to have. But it's also on the Forest boundary. When William decreed it was a Forest they picked out locations already there, so ring barrow must have been one of the markers. But there was no particular reason to put a stone in it. But in 1820 when Forest was sold the strip just to the south was handed over to various landowners in compensation for not having agistement on the moor. One of the boundaries came down a fence which is aligned with this stone. So this nice little site was first a ceremonial Bronze Age setting, b) a Norman marking out, c) a Victorian convenience point. The tide of history was shown rather nicely there.

Hazel Eardley-Wilmott was an Oxford graduate in the 20s. [EM] Forster was her tutor at college. She was always quoting him, especially when reading the draft of his little book. She worked for the British Council and after war was in Prague. She was a literary person who was interested primarily in the moor for the moor's sake and secondly for the archaeology and history of the moor.

The North Devon/West Somerset county boundary made not the slightest difference locally. But EM remembers one occasion when he wanted to get somebody into the NDI and he rang whoever was managing the shaky hospital thing and they said 'but that's in Somerset' and he said 'it's precisely on the Somerset boundary just on the other side of the river'. They said 'it's still in Somerset' and he said 'if you insist I'll go and dig a ditch round it and bring it into Devon' and they said 'all right then' [laughs]. So there was a little bit of bureaucracy, but that was the only time he met it.

Not aware that people who lived on Porlock side felt more Somerset than Devon. Oare was Somerset, but Oare was part of Brendon as far as he was concerned.

[END OF RECORDING] [Back to top]